Saturday, 16 February 2008
Rahasia Sate Tegal
Written by Iwan Koki   
Article Index
Rahasia Sate Tegal
Page 2
Image THERE is no sate kambing like sate Tegal. Bagi sebagian besar orang, mungkin ungkapan ini terasa berlebihan. Sate kambing adalah sate kambing, dari mana pun asalnya. Percayalah, ini keliru. Bukan karena saya pernah tinggal di Tegal, terus saya ”berkampanye” bahwa sate kambing Tegal is the best sate kambing.
Paling tidak, ada dua hal untuk mengatakan sepiring sate kambing itu enak atau tidak. Pertama, satenya sendiri. Kedua, kondimen atau bahan pelengkapnya. Bicara soal kondimen, mungkin ini terkait dengan selera. Jadi, kemungkinan tidak bisa diperbandingkan mana yang enak. Ada kondimen  yang berbasis kecap, ada pula kondimen berbasis sambal kacang. Ada pula yang merupakan campuran keduanya.
 
Jika menengok kebiasaan pedagang sate ayam (yang tidak selalu berasal dari Madura, meskipun sate ayam sering dikenal sebagai sate Madura), yang menggunakan kondimen berbasis sambal kacang, mestinya sate kambing yang ”benar” berbasis sambal kecap.
 
Jika kita perhatikan, sebenarnya tukang sate ayam menggunakan sambal kacang untuk menghindari sate ayam (yang diiris tipis) hangus ketika dipanggang di atas bara arang batok kelapa. Cara yang salah dalam menangani sate kambing memang menyebabkan sate cepat hangus, sehingga perlu dibalut dengan kecap bercampur sambal kacang. Cara yang salah? Iya.
 
Cara yang benar memanggang sate kambing adalah dengan memanggangnya begitu saja, tanpa diolesi apapun. Jika diolesi kecap, permukaan sate akan cepat hangus karena gula yang terdapat dalam kecap akan cepat terbakar. Sebagai ”solusi” ada penjual sate kambing (di luar Tegal, believe me) mengencerkan kecap dengan sedikit air, atau dengan sambal kacang, dengan tujuan menambah kelembaban supaya sate tidak cepat terbakar. Hasilnya? Sate menjadi keras karena terlalu lama berada di atas bara api.
 
Penjual sate Tegal (di Tegal, karena saya tidak yakin mereka yang mengaku berjualan sate Tegal d luar Tegal adalah benar-benar orang Tegal yang mengerti seluk beluk ”menangani” sate kambing) tidak pernah memberi apapun pada sate yang akan dipanggang. Hasilnya, daging cepat matang dan sate hampir tidak nampak tanda-tanda hangus. Kecuali ditinggal pergi selagi dipanggang, he..he....
 
Sebaliknya, jarang sekali ditemukan sate kambing (di luar Tegal) yang tidak hangus ketika dibakar. Penyebabnya, ya adanya olesan bumbu itu. Dan bukan hanya cara memanggang yang membedakan sate Tegal atau bukan. Cara pemilihan dagingpun dilakukan lebih seksama oleh pedagang sate Tegal. Walaupun ketika masih hidup kambing nampak sama, tidak demikian ketika sudah menjadi sate di atas piring.
 
Pada umumnya, sate Tegal diperoleh dari kambing ”kereman”.  Kambing yang di”kerem” adalah kambing yang selama hidupnya ditaruh dalam kandang. Pemiliknya lah yang harus bersusah payah mencari rumput untuk makanan mereka. Dengan demikian, kambing ini tidak perlu menghabiskan energi berjalan kesana kemari mencari makan. Tidak banyak daerah lain yang memperlakukan kambingnya seperti ini. Efeknya, kambing yang dilepas ini ototnya lebih keras. Bisa dimengerti kalau daging mereka juga keras ketika sudah menjadi sate.
 
Satu lagi ”rahasia” enaknya sate Tegal, yaitu pada umur kambing yang dijadikan sate. Jika di tempat lain ukuran besarnya kambing sering dijadikan ukuran untuk menentukan apakah seekor kambing (secara ekonomis) sudah layak dijadikan sate, tidak demikian di Tegal. Sejak dulu mereka mengenal kambing muda sebagai kambing yang paling cocok untuk dijadikan sate. Bisa jadi, ukuran kambing muda tidak sebesar kambing tua. Namun dari segi empuknya daging, dan juga citarasanya, jelas kambing tua tidak akan bisa mengalahkan kambing muda. Oleh karena itu, sekarang dikenal sebagai sate Balibul. Bawah Lima Bulan. Ya, kambing Balibul dianggap sebagai yang palnig cocok untuk dijadikan sate.  Bahkan, sudah ada yang menawarkan sate Batibul. Bawah Tiga Bulan.
 
Jadi, jika anda ingin merasakan sate kambing yang benar-benar enak itu seperti apa, datanglah ke Tegal. (Saya tidak menjamin Sate Tegal yang ada di Jakarta akan mendekati citarasa sate  di Tegal). Tidak usah nyari warung sate yang terkenal. Pick any warung sate. Kecuali anda sedang sial, pasti akan menemukan sate kambing yang empuk, tidak hangus, beraroma menggiurkan, dan tidak akan diberi kondimen macam-macam selain kecap, bawang merah mentah iris, tomat setengah matang iris, dan irisan cabe atau cabe yang dihaluskan. As simple as that. 
 
Tidak berlebihan kalau kita bilang, there is no sate kambing like sate Tegal.

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Comments (11)
1. 19-02-2008 14:17
setujuuuuuu
Wah ternyata sebagai orang yang pernah ke tegal baru tau rahasianya knapa sate tegal uenake puolll.. bikin pingin lagi dan lagi... huheuheuehue
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